The Sprightly Spud

Looking to reconnect with your inner Donna Sheridan? Aegina could be the destination waiting for you.

Stumbling, mildly delirious, into Athens airport arrivals, my family and I breathed a collective sigh of relief on seeing the ruggedly tanned face of our private transfer driver. We staggered towards the promising ‘Hughes’ placard he was clutching, and were warmly welcomed into the minibus with stereotypically Greek cordiality.

After the delights and delays of Manchester airport, we were all grateful for the ease of the 40 minute journey to the city centre Marriott, where we arrived around 11.30, following an in depth discussion about the past 50 years of Greek politics with our driver. Tired but content, we enjoyed a quick drink on the hotel’s terrace, before bedding down ready for the next leg of our trip…

Early the next morning, after a well earned night’s rest in the famously comfortably Marriott beds, I headed down to the well equipped fitness centre for a quick sweat, before showering and allowing my stomach – tingling with anticipation and rumbles of post workout hunger – to guide me to breakfast. For me, a slightly excessive buffet spread is a key indicator that my holiday has begun. This one did not disappoint.

I found myself in a bright, conservatory style dining room, tables dappled with rays of lazy Greek sunshine, and my eyes were greeted with a vast array of both local delicacies and more familiar breakfast classics. Divine.

After overwhelming my lactose intolerant stomach with lavishly creamy yogurt, tart feta cheese and piles of fresh Mediterranean fruit, which seemed to glow with reflections of the Aegean sun, we checked out and took a taxi to Athens port. Do not drive yourself around Athens – from the eyes of a British tourist, there appears to be no rules of the road obeyed here, so taxis are really the way forward.

Athens port is everything one would imagine it to be, a bustling hub of mildly confused tourists, with a selection of outposts from which to buy ferry tickets to the surrounding islands. Boats to Aegina run up to 18 times a day, throughout the year, with the first ferry departing around 6.30, and the last around 19.30. Prices range between approximately €10 and €19 for a single ticket, and we opted for the ‘flying dolphin’ operator, which takes just 40 minutes to reach the stunning shores of Aegina. However, if you are plagued with a weak stomach, then the smoother, ‘slow’ boat, with a journey time of approximately 1 hour 15 minutes, may be a wiser option.

Upon disembarking in Aegina, our senses were assaulted with all the key factors that make a person truly feel they have entered ‘vacation mode’; sunshine tickling our shoulders, smells of fried fish and fruit mingling in our nostrils, and the chorus of excitable voices (both Greek and otherwise) providing the soundtrack to the moment. We chose a small cafe for lunch, where I opted for my first of many Greek salads, and we shared a huge plate of mixed fried fish. Then, narrowly avoiding falling into a deep food and sunshine fuelled coma, we explored the myriad of boutiques in the Port, before taking a taxi to our hotel.

A 15 minute ride with another astonishingly friendly driver brought us to the stunning destination of Lalibay Resort and Spa. It was the picture of luxury. A few tiers of modern, low rise accomodation blocks overlooked the crystal clear sea, and a gorgeous, sun – speckled pool. Staff greeted us on arrival, and swiftly checked us into our rooms, which again, failed to disappoint. Clean, spacious, and contemporary. Ideal.

In terms of facilities, the resort had everything one could need. The aforementioned pool was furnished with ample, comfortable sun beds, and was just a few steps from a beach bar, where a selection of alcoholic beverages, iced coffees, and food were available from 11am. Additionally, if you fancied an even more opulent experience, there was the option to add a spa experience to your stay – with the ‘Pigi Spa’ acting as ‘a wellness sanctuary providing a range of spa treatments that focus on total revitalization of body and spirit.’ This encapsulated, hot tubs, saunas, steam rooms and a variety of hot stone massages and treatments all available to any tranquility seeker. There is also an outdoor gym at Lalibay, although this was not the space age, air conditioned amenity that many fitness enthusiasts desire from their holiday workout space, the rowing machine, few weights and yoga mats available did allow for a quick sweat, whilst connecting with nature. If games are more your cup of tea, tennis rackets, balls and basketballs were all at our disposal for no extra cost for use on the multisport courts. However, the fierce Aegina sunshine meant many guests would choose to limit their sport practices to early morning and evening endeavours.

Another asset of the hotel was the idyllic private beach. A sandy sunbathing area lead to steps down to the ocean, for easy access to swimming and snorkelling in the turquoise waters. For any wildlife aficionado, the kaleidoscopic selection of fish provided more than adequate entertainment, however, later on in our stay, an influx of jellyfish did mean the waters were left out of bounds.

The air of luxury in Lalibay continued into the gastronomic delights available. Not only did the beach bar offer a plentiful variety of sandwiches, salads, burgers and lunch items, but the ‘Kavos’ restaurant – the pride and joy of Michelin starred local chef Spyridon Katridis, offered a refined evening beachside dining experience. ‘Kavos’ served premium dishes from the À la carte Menu, or 3 Degustation Menus (galini serenity / pelagos ocean / gaia earth) for all those who want to discover new gastronomic trends, from 8pm until 10.30 every evening. A delightful breakfast buffet was also served here from 7.30am.

Perhaps the most striking feature of Lalibay, was the engagement and overwhelming friendliness of the hotel manger. He would visit the restaurant every evening, to chat with guests and check that everything was satisfactory with our stay. This left all visitors feeling valued, and listened to, giving the experience of staying at the resort that extra drizzle of splendour.

For travellers wishing to leave the resort, and explore local surroundings, there were two villages in easy walking distance (along the cliffs) of the accomodation; Marathonis and Perdika. These traditional fishing towns offered alternative dining, and an enjoyable atmosphere of Greek hospitality. Perdika, approximately 30 minutes easy stroll from Lalibay, was where we found perhaps our favourite element of our Aegina adventure: Saronis restaurant. Here we not only enjoyed delectable Greek cuisines (Souvlaki, Stifado, an extensive selection of astoundingly good seafood, and of course Greek salad) but we also were able to be fully immersed into the lively culture of the village. Upon wandering across to the restaurant one evening, the “Huges family” were greeted by a senior waiter, who had come to know us by name. There appeared to be some kind of party going on, with a elderly Greek lady dancing exuberantly with a large plastic fish. Upon asking a disgruntled looking young waitress what the occasion was, she merely relplied; “it is Sunday”. After the revellers stumbled off, happily tipsy, we enjoyed another divine meal at Saronis, whilst watching the fat, orange sun lazily drift into the Aegean, before ambling along the cliff path, bellies pleasantly stuffed with local produce, back to our sumptuously comfy beds.

Although a week in Aegina could easily be passed sunbathing, swimming and eating, without walking a few hundred metres from your hotel room, the island is also populated with a number of classic sightseeing spots. The history buff would enjoy the imposing Temple of Aphaia, which gazes regally over the island, providing spectacular vistas of acres upon acres of rugged olive trees. I will not hesitate to admit that I am no expert in Ancient Greek history or architecture, yet the temple, which was frequented by no other tourists when we visited, did not fail to take even my breath away. Additionally, Aegina is home to 365 churches, one for each day of the year. These range from tiny chapels, to grand feats of construction, and are well worth a visit.

Upon the arrival of the end of our stay, we reluctantly taxied back to Aegina Port, in order to catch the ferry back to Athens. From here our journey home was uncomplicated and uneventful, so we arrived back in the UK feeling rested, and privileged to have been able to have been absorbed into the culture, and warm hearts of such a special place.

So, is Aegina the ‘Mamma Mia’ destination you have been dreaming of? Possibly. One could easily enjoy an unadulterated Grecian break here, with a stay in a less elaborate ‘bed and breakfast’ in Aegina Port. However, a vacation at Lalibay offers a celebration of the crossover between pure luxury and classic Greek culture, so would be an ideal hideaway for any traveller looking to connect with their inner adventurer, whilst also indulging in a week or two of undiluted modern opulence and relaxation.