The Sprightly Spud

For anyone in need of an Instagram-friendly iced latte, a criminally flaky weekend croissant, or a lunch-break sandwich with a little more sophistication, there is only one chain to turn to. Gail’s bakery has rapidly risen from an upmarket, London-centric establishment, to a nationwide coffee and bakery chain, which has become synonymous with bougie coffee, sumptuous pastries, and, perhaps most famously, sourdough.

As we become accustomed to artisan coffee blends, and an environment characterised by sophisticated neighbourhood charm, are the days of Costa, Starbucks and Nero numbered? What’s more, will we soon all be abandoning sliced white Warburtons for our morning toast, and instead investing in the alleged health benefits of a more traditional loaf?

It all began with bread… 

Before Gail’s was Gail’s, there was ‘The Bread Factory’. Unlike the neighbourhood haunts we know today, this was a wholesale business, pioneered by Gail Mejia, which united the capital’s greatest bread makers, with the aim of bringing artisan products to London’s top chef’s and restaurants. The Bread Factory is still prospering today, using ‘time-worn methods’ and quality ingredients to craft exceptional bread, just as Gail intended. 

In 2005, the locals of Hampstead Heath were the first to have a Gail’s bakery in their locale, and from then on, the opportunities to purchase artisan bakes and speciality coffee grew and grew, and there are now 170 Gail’s nationwide.

Each bakery follows a philosophy that aims to preserve the authenticity and reputation of the brand. The mission is to cultivate community around quality, whilst giving back to humanity. Thus far it seems to be a ethos that the public can’t resist…

The Cost of a Good Croissant 

One’s preferred outlet to source a morning coffee and pastry can be somewhat of a personal and divisive matter. Bean connoisseurs may choose based on the quality of the brew, whereas less discerning drinkers may simply be drawn to whatever chain falls on their commute route. Most towns and cities play host to a Costa, Pret, Caffe Nero, and Starbucks, in addition to independent establishments, and budget offerings such as McDonalds or Greggs. Additionally, our preferred cafe may be determined by the ambience, should we be blessed with enough time to ‘eat-in’.

With more and more Gail’s springing up around our home towns, the ample choice for a beverage is only expanding further. A regular latte with – shock, horror – ‘normal’ milk, comes in at £4.10, and they do offer soya or oat milks free of charge. So how does this compare to our old favourite chains?

Though Gail’s certainly has a reputation for charging ‘artisan’ prices, Costa, with its 26% market share and 2677 stores across the nation, actually asks more for a brew. A regular latte will have you £4.40 out of pocket, and a grande in Starbucks is even more pricey, at £4.55! Of course, if budget is your priority, McDonalds reign supreme, at just £1.69 for the same drink. 

Most interestingly, the most you could possibly spend on a Gail’s caffeinated beverage would be £2.50. this would get you an iced mocha, with all the possible add ons. Of course, this is an extortionate amount to be spending on a coffee, but doesn’t even come close to what you could spend at Starbucks. By going wild on the personalisations A Tiramisu Frappuccino with some syrup and cream can easily leave you £10 worse off!

When it comes to Pastries, Pain Au Chocs are hard to beat. Gail’s ‘rich dark chocolate batons wrapped in golden, flaky croissant pastry’ have a tag of £3.45. Starbucks’ equivalent will set you back £3.05. Somewhat shockingly, Costa don’t actually retail a Pain Au Chocolate, but their Chocolate Twist is up for grabs at £3.29. Whilst the pastry prices are fairly similar, Gail’s sweet treat offerings are noticeably more attractive, and feature much more variety. Costa and Starbs’ pastries often look a little dilapidated, and appear a little stale, whereas Gail’s – proud of its ‘freshly baked’ label – have a counter of delicacies that could rival any French Patisserie. In addition to doing the Cinnamon and Roll and Chocolate Muffin with undeniable expertise, they also offer the likes of ‘Apple and Sesame Butter Cake’, and ‘Blueberry and Custard Brioches’, pitching them at a superior level to most other chains.

When 12pm hits, London and fellow corporate hubs become swarmed by hungry workers, seeking nourishment, comfort, and fuel in the form of a midday meal. Gail’s, of course, offer ample choices for lunch, which are probably more comparable to that of Pret than other chains. Sandwiches, crafted from their homemade sourdough, focaccia, or challah, are filled with ham and Swiss cheese, harissa chicken, pastrami and squash and sage. Available options vary with the season, and you can expect to pay around £7 for your butty!

Pret’s ‘lovingly prepared’ sandwiches, wraps and salads also have a seasonal focus. Whilst the famous baguettes, croissants and cookies aren’t made from scratch in shops, they are often cooked from frozen throughout the day, helping ensure freshness. The fillings are a little more ‘classic’ than Gail’s for the most part – with the ‘Posh Cheddar and Pickle Baguette’ reigning as their bestseller. This being said, they do have more adventurous offerings like a Falafel, Avo and Chipotle flatbread, and a Brie, Tomato and Basil Baguette, alongside plenty of hot choices, like a Kale and Cauli Macaroni Cheese, and a variety of fresh soups. 

In essence, Pret seem to have the edge on Gail’s in terms of lunch variety (particularly when it comes to salads), and though their baguettes are similarly priced between £5.75 and £6.99, simpler sandwiches are a little more affordable, with a standard Egg Mayo being just £3.70. Costa and Starbucks’ sandwiches, quite frankly, don’t compare.  They are pre-packaged, and generally no superior to a supermarket meal deal. What’s more, you can still pay upwards of £7 for Chicken, Mozzarella and Pesto Focaccia in the latter establishment. 

In essence, Gail’s certainly isn’t a budget haunt, but there’s a clear argument to say its reputation as overpriced and overly hyped is a little unfounded, at least when it comes to coffee and snacks…

The Sourdough Story

To be labelled ‘sour’, a bread simply has to use a slow fermentation process, taking advantage of the natural, gut-loving bacteria in the flour, instead of containing commercial yeast. Consequently it can carry a number of health benefits. 

1. A prebiotic powerhouse

With gut health on the tip of everyone’s tongues, fermented foods are being thrust into the limelight. As a source of prebiotics (non-digestible compounds in food) they are brilliant way of enhancing the diversity of your gut microbiome. Greater diversity leads to a stronger resistance to pathogens, improved digestion, and potentially even better mental health. The list goes on, and there are multiple contributing factors to gut wellbeing, but the gist is that switching your standard bread to sourdough could be a positive starting point. 

2. Good for gluten

For some, extremely unfortunate, individuals, gluten creates somewhat of a digestive challenge. Experiencing, fatigue, nausea or bloating after consuming the protein can be helped by choosing sourdough, as the fermentation process breaks down some gluten for us. In some cases, however, gluten sensitivity is a result of coeliac disease – an autoimmune response where the body brutally attacks the small intestine upon its consumption – and therefore sourdough still isn’t on the menu. The same is true for those with a wheat allergy. 

Sourdough also contains lower levels of fructans, which are a FODMAP food, thus often trigger digestive distress. Therefore sourdough may be lighter on the stomach for many IBS sufferers too. 

3. It might be more nutritious

In addition to being a delicious source of carbohydrate, whole grain breads contain a selection of mineral like potassium, magnesium and phosphate. These play essential roles in regulating fluid balance, blood sugar and sleep, amongst a whole host of other things. This being said, our ability to absorb them from bread is limited by the presence of a substance called phytic acid, which can bond to the minerals, making them difficult to absorb. As an ‘antinutrient’, it is natural found in many plant-based foods, but the fermentation process involved in making sourdough means it may contain significantly less than ‘normal’ bread. 

Fermentation also creates lactic acid, which has a bad reputation for anyone fond of exercise… however, where bread is concerned, it creates a distinctive taste, bouncy bubbles, and a lower pH, which helps your sourdough stay fresh for longer.

The Home-Baked Hierarchy

At £13 for a 2kg loaf, regular consumers of Gail’s sourdough may need to remortgage their homes.

Admittedly, a 2kg hunk of bread is pretty darn substantial. Your standard sliced (normal) loaves are just 800g, and supermarket sourdoughs tend to weigh in at 400g. Nevertheless, even Gail’s smaller loaves will cost you between £4.70 and £7. So, are they really that much better than a standard loaf, or more accessibly priced sourdoughs?

Potentially…

Some breads are certainly produced more ‘authentically’ than others, but whether one could actually taste this is questionable. Undoubtedly, quality ingredients used to make your loaf may have an impact on the flavour profile too, but ultimately it is the exclusion of preservatives and emulsifiers that set it apart from basic products, and what places ‘artisan’ loaves on a superior level to supermarket sourdoughs.

Additionally, there may be variations between the quality of supermarket offerings. 500g of Waitrose No1 Sourdough, for example, actually uses the same flour as Gail’s, and is basket proved. At £2.25, its around the same price as Tesco’s ‘premium’ product, but the the latter contains rapeseed oil and other additives, which may help it stay fresh for longer. Of course, the cheaper the bread, the more likely it is to be mass produced with intense machinery, and accelerated fermentation processes. This is linked to a less complex flavour, and an airier, open crumb. Popular brand Jason’s also prioritise traditional ingredients and baking practices, but have aimed to make sourdough more convenient, through slicing and baking in square tins. 

In essence, you can pick up a decent loaf of sourdough in your average supermarket, but its worth checking the ingredient list, and depends on whether your more concerned about price, or the use of an authentic production process.

Emotionally, there is an argument to say that hot-girl walking to your local Gail’s,  in pursuit of your weekly loaf, having a friendly interaction with a baker or barista, then strolling back home clutching a paper bag and an oat flat white, has a certain romance to it. Some would also argue that this reduces the carbon footprint of your breakfast, thanks to less industrial transport, the elimination of a factory process, and an increased likelihood that British flour will have been used. For example, Gail’s uses an impressive 80% British ingredients in all their products, and are renowned for supporting small businesses, prioritising regenerative farming, and seeking local suppliers., 

Whilst your Gail’s loaf may be pretty darn ethical, arguably the ‘best’ option would be a local, independent bakery, as this carries minimal environmental impact, and supports local entrepreneurship. Unfortunately, time and geography means these aren’t feasible practices for most of us. Furthermore, Gail’s is certainly not the UK’s only bakery chain… 

For those in the capital, Sourdough Sophia is a growing artisan chain, prioritising sustainable ingredients and ancient methods. Their signature 750g sourdough (at £6 – so around the same price as Gail’s by weight) is not only available in store, but also on Deliveroo. The same is true for Ole and Stein, however its unclear where the Danish brand source their ingredients. 

Ultimately, you have to weigh up the value of the experience against the elevated cost, and perhaps this is why Gail’s remain successful in an economy dominated by frugality. 

The Final Slice

Regardless of your opinion on the importance of consuming minimally processed bread, or which coffee chain sells the best americano, one thing is for certain; Gail’s is here to stay. With 30-40 planned openings in 2025, the chain is determined to bring quality bread to the whole of the UK, not just London. 

Despite its reputation, Gail’s doesn’t actually seem to be significantly more expensive than fellow coffee and snack retailers. Furthermore, though its loaves are more costly than supermarket breads (and £1.40 for a single bagel is somewhat breathtaking) its sourdough is no dearer than that of its peers either. 

In my opinion, Gail’s success is a consequence of our changing cravings. The loneliness epidemic is ever-present, particularly as home-working snowballs in popularity, and young professionals are left increasingly isolated in their city apartments. Therefore, a charming coffee shop driven by a desire to cultivate community, and provide a plethora of irresistible pastry treats, deserves a firm place on our high streets.